Seasonal Raw Sancho Magic! Preserving Japanese Green Peppercorns with Chirimen Onigiri / 季節のごちそう、実山椒。香りおいしい、ちりめんおにぎり

A Return to Japan, A Return to the Seasons. The Epoch with Sansho

This is one of my absolute seasonal rituals when I’m in Japan—preserving green Japanese peppercorns, known as ao-sansho (青山椒 or 実山椒).

They appear only for a fleeting few weeks in May, and their presence signals a deep connection between Japanese cuisine and seasonality. While the rest of the world may know Sichuan peppercorns for their punchy numbing heat, Japanese sansho offers something subtler: a sharp citrusy fragrance, a gentle tingling on the tongue, and a delicate green glow that feels like early summer itself.

Unlike Sichuan peppercorns, which are dried and suited to spicy, oily dishes, sansho is usually preserved fresh—either blanched and frozen or simmered into soy-based sauces. It pairs best with dashi, rice, and grilled eel (unagi)—seasonal ingredients that emphasize harmony over heat.

Preparing Sansho: A Mother-Daughter Kitchen Meditation

This year, I was lucky to be back home in Japan just in time for sansho season. My mother and I sat at the table, carefully removing the tiny stems—an act that took nearly two hours, but felt almost meditative. She works with such quiet focus, never distracted like I tend to be.

Steps to prepare:

• Soak the sansho overnight in clean water
• Remove stems one by one
• Blanch in boiling salted water for 2–3 minutes, skimming off the foam
• Immediately transfer to ice water to preserve the vivid green color
• Air dry slightly, then portion and freeze for use throughout the year

These small tasks—each gentle, deliberate, and quiet—feel like the very rhythm of home.

Onigiri with Sansho and Chirimen Jako

This time, I made one of my favorite ways to enjoy sansho: onigiri mixed with chirimen jako, tiny dried anchovies.

Because I found especially flavorful chirimen this time, I used no soy sauce or salt—just a quick rinse, then simmered gently with sake. When almost dry, I stirred in some of the blanched sansho. That was it. And yet, it was perfect.

The brightness of sansho cuts through the richness of the fish. Its refreshing spiciness makes the whole rice ball feel lighter and deeply seasonal. It needs no decoration. Just clean, bold flavor.

Visual Guide to the Recipe

A Note of Gratitude

This is my third recipe for #onebookthreerecipes, beautifully hosted by @whennonnocooks and @albacooksnbakes.

The original recipe and inspiration come from a book by @kinsaryu, the Japanese cooking school where I continue to learn about the quiet strength and depth of traditional cuisine. Sometimes, a bowl of rice with preserved sansho says more than a whole feast.

季節の香りを閉じ込めて：季節の手仕事、実山椒

今年も運よく、5月の帰省が実山椒の季節に重なりました。
母と一緒に、小さな粒の軸を一本ずつ取りながら過ごす時間は、静かで、どこか懐かしい日常のリズム。

水に浸し、丁寧に下処理をした実山椒は、塩茹でして氷水に。色を残しつつ、辛みを和らげます。乾かして冷凍すれば、来年の春まで楽しめる、我が家の宝物のようなストックです。

ちりめんじゃこも、良いものが手に入ったときのシンプル仕立て。湯通しして、お酒だけでさっと煮て、最後に実山椒を加えるだけで、素材が持つ力がぐっと引き立ちます。
おにぎりにして、初夏のごちそうに。